XX4 - Abnet Mekonin
XX4 - Abnet Mekonin
XX4 - Abnet Mekonin
XX4 - Abnet Mekonin

XX4 - Abnet Mekonin

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This experimental release will be offered first to 2026 season subscribers; any remaining volume will be made available for public sale at the end of March. Sign up for email notifications for advance notice of the drop.


The fourth coffee in our wildcard series is another Aviary-exclusive and first-ever that comes from a Cup of Excellence winning producer in Bensa, Ethiopia using an unusual and novel processing method: fermented for three days in a pit in the ground lined with enset leaves—presenting winey, bright and intense  with notes of blueberry, raspberry, cherry, pineapple and lime zest.

From Christopher: "We sat at the house of Bekele Kachara’s brother in Murago, drinking coffee and eating handfuls of kocho. Bekele’s washing station, just a hundred-meter walk from where we sat and which his brother manages, hummed with activity as the peak harvest approached.

"Ensete ventricosum, like Coffea arabica, is native to Ethiopia and is a staple food for 20 million of the country’s people. While its fruit is inedible, the roots of the 6m tall tree are a critical source of nutrition which are traditionally pulverized and fermented by the Sidama people until it develops a strong lactic tang with the texture of couscous or fonio.

"As I felt the caffeine hit my bloodstream and my face caught light from the Bensa sun, I was struck by the parallels between kocho production and coffee post-harvest processing like “bioinnovation” and “anaerobic” methods. In other words: the technology used and perfected by Ethiopians over millennia—using the leaves of the enset tree to line pits dug in the ground, protecting it from insects or soil and providing a cooler environment through which to control fermentation—could also be used for fermenting coffee.

"Like in the coffee industry, where women provide the critical labor of picking cherry and sorting for defects, women hold the traditional knowledge of enset; they prepare the pit in the ground, roast and pulverize the roots of the young trees, and carefully ferment the pulp for weeks underground. And—as in coffee—women typically go unrecognized for their contributions.

"I mused with Bekele that it would be fun to try to produce coffee the way that kocho was produced—and to have his wife produce the lot in the same way she would produce kocho. In turn, I would buy the resulting coffee, no matter the cup outcome, and market the lot under her name.  

"Only 45 kilograms of coffee processed using this method were ever produced; Aviary bought all of it.

"The result of this process is an unusual cup—tropical and funky aromatics open to intense, winey, chocolatey notes of raspberry, cherry, blueberry, and lime zest."

We anticipate that this coffee will be roasted the week of March 24, 2026

TASTING NOTES: Winey notes of raspberry, cherry, blueberry, and lime zest
ROAST:
Light, to accentuate the vibrancy of this coffee and present its fruited character as ripe and juicy while mitigating funky tones that may creep in from its fruity character.
ACIDITY: Complex, bright, winey acidity
FUNK: This is the a funkier coffee than Aviary's typical style, but quite clean in comparison to many anaerobic style Ethiopian coffees; moderately funky on the nose, that funk doesn't translate to the cup.
FOR FANS OF: Experimental processing; weird ideas that somehow work; water; award-winners; emergent trends; big, vibrant cups

FARMGATE PRICE:
FOB PRICE: $9.00 per lb
LANDED PRICE: $10.95 per lb

This lot was produced with cherry collected in January 2025 from the farm owned by Bekele Kachara.

Because he exported the coffee under his own export license, Bekele and his wife received 100% of the FOB value of the coffee.

The costs of handling this type of lot are higher than conventionally processed naturals or washed lots; they require maintaining strict separation during transportation and milling; milling equipment must be cleaned before and after processing to maintain lot integrity; customs clearance is more expensive on a per-pound basis due to the small size of the lot; and the costs of sampling ($80 in DHL fees) and finance must be absorbed by the coffee's sales price. Finally, the lot was vacuum sealed—manually, rather than using a machine—incurring additional costs before export.

Inflation reported by the government was 17%, down from the previous year (28%), but the effects of currency devaluation made inflationary effects feel more acute. Financing challenges meant that if they were willing to give agricultural loans at all banks assessed the value based on last year's export, in birr—regardless of devaluation. This meant that there was less financing available for purchasing cherry, suppressing the competition for cherry seen in previous years. Regardless, cherry prices ranged from 75-115 birr per kg through the season, reflective of devaluation and continued demand for USD, even as the South saw a larger-than-expected harvest.

The price that Bekele received ($9 per pound FOB) was significantly higher than the C-market price ($3.26), even amid a record-breaking run, but was the government's published minimum registration price ($9.00) for experimental lots, the premium reflecting the quality of the coffee as well as a commitment to paying above long-term costs of production.

The high delta between FOB and landed price can be explained both through an increase in financing costs for 2024-2025 associated not only with a higher C-market but also higher risk, higher prime rates and an industry-wide liquidity crunch; and payment to CoQua, our agent in Ethiopia.

74158 coffee grown using organic methods by Bekele Kachara in Murago, Bensa at 2400+ masl; hand-picked and sorted for ripeness; floated; fermented in a traditional pit used for enset fermentation constructed by Abnet Mekonin, lined and covered with enset leaves for 3 days; dried under shade on raised beds for 22-25 days.

I recommend resting this coffee for 2-5 weeks from its roasted date filter brewing and 4-6 weeks for espresso-style preparation (though you may wish to try it earlier to enjoy how the coffee changes and opens over time). It will develop heavier fruit tones overtime; to avoid funkiness, consume on the early side.

As filter, I prefer a ratio of 1:17 using low-agitation methods of extraction resulting in 22-23% EY.